The emerald at the centre of this ring is an estimated 2.61 carats, set in a white gold rub-over collet — the cool, neutral tone of the white gold allowing the full depth of the stone's green to read without the warming interference of yellow gold. Emerald, the most prized variety of beryl, owes its colour to trace amounts of chromium and vanadium; the finest stones have a vivid, saturated green with a slight bluish undertone, and the characteristic inclusions that gemologists call jardin — the garden — are accepted as evidence of natural origin rather than treated as flaws.

The ring is made in the Etruscan Revival style in 18ct yellow gold, c.1990, with rope twist detailing along the outer edge of the band — the twisted wire motif that is the most characteristic decorative element of the Etruscan Revival, derived directly from the wirework found on ancient Etruscan goldwork excavated in Italy from the early 19th century onward. Two diamond accents of 0.16 carats total sit in matching white gold rub-over settings on the band, echoing the setting of the centre stone.

At 11.5g this is a ring of considerable substance. Tests as 18ct gold. Ring size M½ (UK).

The Details

• Circa: 1990
• Weight: 11.5g
• Emerald: Estimated 2.61 carats (white gold rub-over setting)
• Diamonds: Estimated 0.16 carats total (rub-over set)
• Ring size: M½ (UK)
• Hallmarks: Tests as 18ct gold
• Style: Etruscan Revival