A refined and beautifully observed Art Nouveau stickpin in 18ct gold, c.1900, modelled as two textured sycamore leaves set with old mine cut diamonds. The naturalistic treatment of the leaves — their surfaces worked to capture the texture of the real thing — is characteristic of the finest Art Nouveau goldsmithing, which drew its inspiration directly from the forms of the natural world. The satin-finished gold of the leaves provides a deliberate contrast to the brilliant sparkle of the old mine cut diamonds, the interplay of matt and bright surfaces giving the piece a sophistication that belies its small scale. Old mine cut diamonds, with their high crowns, small tables and large culets, have a warmer, more romantic fire than modern brilliant cuts — particularly flattering at the scale of a stickpin. Tests as 18ct gold; unknown European maker's marks. Head 1.9 × 1.1cm; pin length 7cm; weight 2.2g.

The Details

• Circa: 1900
• Weight: 2.2g
• Head dimensions: 1.9 × 1.1cm
• Pin length: 7cm
• Hallmarks: Tests as 18ct gold; unknown European maker's marks
• Stones: Old mine cut diamonds