A fine pair of 18ct gold cufflinks by Deakin & Francis, Birmingham hallmarked 1985, with square cushion faces inlaid with mother of pearl within a decorative gold border, each centred with a brilliant-cut diamond in a white gold collet — an estimated 0.20 carats of diamonds in total. The cushion square format, with its softened corners and generous face, is one of the most flattering cufflink shapes, the mother of pearl inlay providing a luminous, iridescent ground against which the diamond centre reads with particular clarity. Deakin & Francis, established in Birmingham in 1786, is the oldest jewellery house in the city; the combination of their maker's mark with a Birmingham assay hallmark and a date letter is as reliable a provenance as a cufflink can carry. Chain-link fittings. Birmingham hallmarked 750 (18ct gold), 1985; maker's mark D&F. 1.2 × 1.2cm; weight 12.2g.

The Details

• Dated: 1985
• Weight: 12.2g
• Face dimensions: 1.2 × 1.2cm
• Estimated diamond weight: 0.20 carats total (brilliant-cut, white gold collets)
• Hallmarks: 750 Birmingham 1985; maker's mark D&F (Deakin & Francis)
• Inlay: Mother of pearl with decorative gold border
• Fitting: Chain-link
• Maker: Deakin & Francis, est. 1786, Birmingham