A bold and sculptural French 18ct gold ring, c.1970, centred on an oval amethyst within an abstract-style mount worked entirely in a bark finish — the rough, organic texture that was one of the defining surface treatments of French goldsmithing in the 1960s and 1970s, its deliberately unpolished quality providing a striking contrast to the smooth, faceted surface of the amethyst at its centre. At 3.5 × 2.2cm and 13.3g, this is a ring of considerable scale and presence, the abstract form of the mount giving it a sculptural quality that places it firmly in the tradition of the bold, expressive jewellery design of the period.

The bark finish — achieved by working the surface of the gold with a tool that creates a pattern of irregular, organic indentations — was favoured by French and Italian goldsmiths of the era for its ability to give gold a sense of depth and texture that a polished surface cannot achieve. The warmth of the 18ct yellow gold and the deep purple of the amethyst work well together, the richness of both materials complementing rather than competing. French assay mark for 18ct gold.

Ring size L (UK); dimensions 3.5 × 2.2cm; weight 13.3g.

The Details

• Circa: 1970
• Weight: 13.3g
• Dimensions: 3.5 × 2.2cm
• Ring size: L (UK)
• Hallmarks: French assay mark (18ct gold)
• Finish: All-over bark texture
• Origin: France