A magnificent Art Nouveau brooch in 18ct gold, c.1890, of exceptional quality and condition. The intricate pierced foliate design is set with pigeon blood rubies — the finest and most prized grade of ruby, distinguished by their vivid, pure red colour with a hint of blue — paired with old-cut diamonds totalling an estimated 0.25 carats, and enriched with delicate enamel work visible through the pierced pattern. The combination of rubies, diamonds and enamel in a naturalistic foliate setting is quintessentially Art Nouveau, and this example displays the soft satin patina of fine period gold that only comes with age. The reverse is fitted with a secure rat-tail pin and safety catch. Tests as 18ct gold; possible French assay mark present. At 2.7 × 3.5cm and 8.8g this is a brooch of real presence.

The Details

• Circa: 1890
• Weight: 8.8g
• Dimensions: 2.7 × 3.5cm
• Estimated total diamond weight: 0.25 carats (old-cut)
• Hallmarks: Tests as 18ct gold; possible French assay mark
• Stones: Pigeon blood rubies, old-cut diamonds, enamel