A French 18ct gold snake ring, the body of the serpent set with calibré-cut emeralds and rubies — each stone individually shaped to follow the geometry of the form — with milgrain-set diamonds providing a sparkling border between the two colours. The snake has been one of the most enduring motifs in jewellery design, carrying associations of eternity, wisdom, and transformation across cultures and centuries; in the context of a ring, the serpent coiling around the finger has a particular resonance, the form of the jewel and the form of the motif becoming one. The alternating emerald and ruby calibré work — the deep green of the emeralds against the vivid red of the rubies — gives the ring a richness of colour that is intensified by the precision of the setting, each stone fitting seamlessly against its neighbour with no metal visible between them.

The milgrain detailing — the fine beaded border applied along the edges of the diamond setting — is a finishing touch characteristic of the finest French jewellery of the Art Deco period and its revival, the delicate texture providing a transition between the coloured stones and the diamonds. French assay mark; hallmarked 750 (18ct gold). Ring size N (UK).

The Details

• Stones: Calibré-cut emeralds and rubies; milgrain-set diamonds
• Ring size: N (UK)
• Hallmarks: French assay mark; 750 (18ct gold)
• Origin: France